A.  Slugs and snails belong to a family called mollusks. They have soft bodies covered by a membrane and a flat surface on the underside that acts as a foot in enabling them to crawl along the ground and leave a visible slimy trail (note the slime trail in the right side photo above).

Both slugs and snails have two tiny horn-like protrusions on their heads. The difference is that snails have a hard spiral shell covering their backs that is used for protection. They reproduce by laying clusters of tiny gelatinous eggs in the soil. Because each slug or snail contains both male and female sex organs and because some even have the capability of fertilizing their own eggs, these pests are not easy to eradicate.

Slugs and snails will target all plants, especially young tender seedlings, such as lettuce, or new growth on established plants. They feed by chewing large ragged holes in the leaves and are usually noticeable in our yards from spring to mid-fall. Both slugs and snails feed at night or on overcast cloudy days; however, when the sun comes out, they seek moist, cool, and dark hiding places. These may be in nearby debris or plants even in the soil.

There are several physical, organic, and chemical methods of decreasing the number of these pests in one's yard.

The physical method is by simply handpicking these pests off plants and by squashing them or dropping them in a bucket of soapy or salty water. Because the animals feed mostly at night, we have been known to make midnight raids into the garden armed with flashlights and buckets. The pests move slowly and are not affected by the noise we make, so they are generally easy to find and kill.

You can trap them by placing overturned flower pots, halved grapefruit shells, or boards in strategic places in the garden and keeping these areas moist. The pests will perhaps seek these areas when daylight comes.

To deter snails from your garden, it is recommended that you reduce the availability of as many of their favorite hiding places as possible. For example, remove bricks, pots or sections of planks that are in contact with soil as snails can utilize the moist area underneath as shelter.

Tilling the soil frequently is a good method of exposing their eggs to unfavorable weather conditions and to predators. Inserting copper strips as barriers around your plants may after them because the slugs or snails receive a tiny electrical shock when their moist bodies climb over the copper.

Organic ways of controlling these pests could be any one of the following methods. Place saucers of beer (used regular beer, not a lite or low calorie beer!) in several different places. The pests attracted to the yeast smell and will climb into the saucers and drown.

An alternative to beer would be to concoct your own brew consisting of 3/8 teaspoon of lager yeast or baking yeast with 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 cup water. Extra brew solutions may be kept in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Because both slugs and snails have soft undersides that are vulnerable to sharp edges, the homeowner may use crushed eggshells, oyster shells, wood ashes, or diatomaceous earth placed strategically around plants or the perimeter of the garden.

Chemical pesticides that contain methaldehyde, methocarb, or mesurol and applied as baits next to plants (but definitely not on them) are quite effective in decreasing the slug/snail population. One bait, Deadline, which will survive a few rainfalls, is applied in short lines like toothpaste around plants; however, some dogs are attracted to this as well. Care should be taken to prevent animals from licking this bait, which could be fatal to the animal. One safeguard would be to place the Deadline inside empty cans so that only the snails or slugs could reach this bait. Also, there are several granules or flakes on the market; however, these soon disappear after a rainfall and must be replaced. Before using any pesticide, always read and follow all directions contained on the label.

You may be successful in controlling these pests in your garden, but if your neighbor doesn't do likewise, be prepared to fight them again next year.

This web site is maintained by Master Gardener Laura Bellmore, under the direction of William M. Johnson, Ph.D., County Extension Agent-Horticulture & Master Gardener Program Coordinator.

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