In this issue . . .
Plant of the Month: Jujube, Chinese Date
Green Guide to Yard Care
Horticulture Field Lab Water Garden
Fall Ideal for Planting Trees & Shrubs
Emergency Procedure
Blackberry Variety Trials
Garden Checklist
Lawn and Garden Update is a publication of the Departments of Soil and Crop Sciences & Horticultural Sciences, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System, College Station, TX. Contributing Editors: Drs. Gene R. Taylor, William C. Welch, and Douglas F. Welsh.
William C. Welch, Editor October 1998
OCTOBER PLANT OF THE MONTH . . . JUJUBE, CHINESE DATE, ZIZYPHUS JUJUBA
By Dr. William C. Welch, Landscape Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas
Every fall, I receive plant and fruit specimens of a curious brownish, date-like fruit for identification. Although it is as tough as any native plant, it is actually a Chinese date, or jujube. Jujubes grow and thrive in just about every county in Texas. They are not commonly found in nurseries, but are propagated by root sprouts, seeds, or by grafting. Root sprouts can be a problem if not mowed or removed. Jujubes can be identified from a distance by the nearly impenetrable thicket they often form if not maintained.
Chinese dates are among the most persistent and long-lived imported trees in the South. Some sources indicate that they were introduced from Europe by Robert Chisolm in 1837, and first planted in Beaufort, North Carolina. They have also been mentioned as being in the early Spanish missions in California, and were possibly brought to America at an earlier time. They are thought to be native to Syria or China, and are widely distributed in the warmer parts of Europe, southern Asia, Africa, and Australia. The Chinese have been known to cultivate as many as 400 varieties of jujube, and have a great fondness for the fruit; it is sometimes processed with honey and sugar, and sold as a dessert confection. The jujube has been cultivated in China for hundreds of years. Roger Meyers, a member of the California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc., has published several articles on jujubes, and is attempting to research the names and provide sources for some of the best varieties that have been introduced in the past.
Jujubes can reach 50 feet tall, and have shiny, deciduous, dark green foliage and, sometimes, thorny stems. They are pruned and trained to much smaller plants at times. Flowers are small and inconspicuous, appearing in the axil of the leaf. The fruit ranges from 1/2 to 2 inches long, and changes from green to reddish brown as it matures in late summer and early fall. In addition to their culinary uses, Chinese dates have traditionally been used for medicinal purposes, with the fruit being made into pastes, tablets, and syrups that were supposed to be soothing to the mucous membranes.
The earliest reference to jujubes I have found comes from research by George R. Stritikus of Montgomery, Alabama. In Volume 3, 1885, of the American Cotton Planter (a monthly magazine published in Montgomery), an editorial appeared referring to jujube being imported 'a short time back' from Europe. The Mission Valley Nurseries Catalog, Victoria County, Texas, 1888, provides an interesting entry on jujubes . . . "Jujube -- A fruit somewhat between a plum and a date. Foliage ornamental, hardy, and vigorous here -- suckers badly. We plant it for ornament and for our bees . . . 50 cents each, $4/dozen." Mr. Lucas Reyes, of TAEX (retired), was able to locate early copies of the 1921 Annual Report of the Beeville Experiment Station in South Texas, which mentions that jujubes were planted there in 1918. They were observed in 1921, 1924, and 1929 to be mostly thrifty and productive.
Research on the nutritional content and culinary uses of jujube fruit, done in the Food Science section of Texas A&M's Horticultural Sciences Department in the 1940s by Dr. Homer Blackhurst, revealed that the vitamin C content was very high. Experiments where the seeds were removed and the fruit cooked with water, sugar, and seasonings resulted in a product much like apple butter, and in taste tests with apple butter, it was selected as superior. Following is one recipe taken from USDA publication B-1215 (date unknown) entitled Methods of Utilizing the Chinese Jujube.
Jujube Butter
6 pints jujube pulp
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cloves
2 teaspoons cinnamon
5 pints sugar
1/4 pint vinegar
1 lemon
Boil fruit until tender in sufficient water to cover it. Rub cooked fruit through a sieve or colander to remove the skin and seeds. Cook slowly until thick, put in jars, and seal while hot.
GREEN GUIDE TO YARD CARE HELPS HOME OWNERS PROTECT THE ENVIRONMENT
The Texas Natural Resource Conservation Commission (TNRCC) has published "Green Guide to Yard Care", a comprehensive yard-care guide which covers the essentials for maintaining a healthy yard and environment with a minimum of cost, work, and waste. The theme of the Guide is taken from the TNRCC's YardWise program, a simple four-step program which includes grass-cycling, mulching, composting (including worm composting), and green landscape design and yard care. A free copy of the "Green Guide to Yard Care" (publication number GI-28) is available to all Texas citizens by contacting TNRCC's publication department at (512) 239-0028 or FAX at (512) 239-4488.
The Guide is packed with how-to information, but it also explains the scientific principles behind these practices, and the economic and environmental importance of using them. The first three steps of YardWise -- grass-cycling, mulching, and composting -- are the basic tools for building up and protecting a healthy, fertile soil. Building on a foundation of healthy soil created by these three steps, the final step consists of organizing the physical layout, plantings, watering practices, and integrated pest management of the yard so that it needs little or no chemical fertilization or pest control, and releases little if any sediment or chemicals to pollute the environment.
In developing the "Green Guide to Yard Care", TNRCC enlisted a broad spectrum of experts to advise and contribute, including horticulturists, professional composters, and educators and scientists from the Texas Agricultural Extension Service. At 25 pages, including a glossary, table of contents, diagrams, and references to sources of more information, this Guide is comprehensive and easy to use.
As the state's environmental agency, TNRCC is committed to reducing municipal solid waste going into Texas landfills by 50 percent. Yard trimmings have historically accounted for as much as 20 percent of landfill waste, and reducing them represents one of the state's best opportunities to reduce waste at the source -- in this case our own back yards.
For more information, contact Bill Carter in TNRCC's Office of Pollution Prevention and Recycling at (512) 239-6750. All TNRCC news releases are available at:
<http:www.tnrcc.state.tx.us/exec/media/press/>
HORTICULTURE FIELD LAB WATER GARDEN
By Dr. William C. Welch Landscape Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas
This is the second part in our series on the Horticulture Field Lab Garden. Garry McDonald, Research Associate in the Horticultural Sciences Department, provided us with information about this new addition. Garry has worked closely with Dr. Don Wilkerson, Dr. Mike Arnold, Priscilla Files, and numerous others to create this interesting addition to the overall landscape setting.
Interest in water gardening is growing as the gardening public realizes the added dimension that water, aquatic and bog plants, and fish and related wildlife can bring to the landscape.
In addition to bringing beauty to the Field Lab area, the water garden has a very practical dimension. It is the final treatment basin for recycled water released from the nursery production area. Most of the nitrogen, heavy metals, pesticides, etc., have already been filtered out in a series of tanks containing water and bog plants.
The total area covered by the water garden is about 50 X 20 feet. It has an average depth of about 18 inches. The base is native clay which has been covered by an 8 mil plastic liner, with a 3 inch layer of gravel on top of the plastic. A small recirculating pump provides visual interest and some aeration in the pond. Approximately 13 tons of limestone rocks have been added as edging material, and a wooden bridge and boardwalk span the pond near its center.
Plantings on the perimeter are still evolving, and they include Louisiana irises from the Marie Caillet collection, dwarf papyrus (Cyperus isocladus), ÎBrandywine' cannas (a scarlet, medium-growing hybrid from Longwood Gardens), several alocacias (elephant ears), variegated sweet flag (Acorus), spider lilies (Hymenocallis liriosme), and Crinums ÎEllen Bosanquet' and ÎSangria'.
On the list for planting this fall is Rosa palustris ÎScandens' (the swamp rose), water lilies, and other plants that will be useful for students enrolled in the plant identification classes.
A dozen fantail gold fish and one koi have been added to the water garden recently. Birds, frogs, and dragonflies are attracted to the water, and many more plants will be added.
The road to the Field Lab and adjacent TAMU Early Learning Center has been repaved, and is now in excellent condition. Refer to the map below for directions.
Next month . . . Vines of interest at the Horticulture Field Lab
FALL IDEAL FOR PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
By Douglas F. Welsh, Ph.D.
Associate Professor and Extension Horticulturist
Finally, fall is here. The weather is becoming slightly cooler, and gardeners are slowly migrating back outdoors after record-breaking heat this summer. Now is a perfect time to add a new tree or a grouping of shrubs to the landscape. Or perhaps you have an area in the landscape that needs "remodeling" or rejuvenating. The fall may be the best season to plant, surpassing even the spring.
Many people prefer January through March for planting, but the fall months of September through December have distinct advantages. Fall planting follows the heat of summer, and precedes a cool winter season. Trees and shrubs planted use this to good advantage. Plant roots grow anytime the soil temperature is 40 degrees or higher, which may occur all winter in Texas. During the winter months, the root systems of the fall-planted specimens develop and become established. When spring arrives, this expanded root system can support and take advantage of the full surge of spring growth.
Fall planting is the optimum time to plant balled and burlapped trees and shrubs. Balled and burlapped plants have ample time to recover from transplanting and proliferate roots before spring growth begins. Remember however, all bare root plants, including roses and pecan and fruit trees should be planted in late winter when they are completely dormant.
When buying plants for your landscape, be sure to get healthy, well-grown plants. Always buy from a reputable dealer. Those in the plant selling business year-round depend on repeat customers, and only by selling customers quality plants can there be assurance of future business. Beware of plant bargains. They can easily turn out to be real headaches. A bargain is no good if it dies. The price tag, especially the cheapest one, is not the best guide to quality.
All plants have growing requirements. Think about the plant's needs before you invest. Is it adapted to your area's soil? Will it grow in sun or shade? Does it need a wet or dry location? Is it cold hardy? Some nurseries have this type of information on tags beside the plant. If not, ask a nursery professional or the county Extension agent.
ÎPlan before you plant' is always a good rule of thumb. Whether you are planting a single plant or an entire landscape, plan first, then plant. Good planning is a worthwhile investment of time that will pay off in greater enjoyment of attractive and useful home grounds, and in increasing the value of your home. It's much easier to move plants on paper then to dig them after planting in the wrong place. A plan saves many planting mistakes.
Every plant in the landscape should serve a purpose. Ask yourself if you want a plant for screening, for privacy, or for shade. How large will it be five years from now? Plants, like people, grow up. Remember, that a small one-gallon size plant will look entirely different after a few years of growth in your landscape.
Plant properly for success. Here are a few guidelines on getting the job done right:
1. Dig a hole large enough in diameter so that the root system has at least six inches of clearance on all sides. The root ball should rest on a solid soil foundation, so don't dig the hole much deeper than the ball.
2. Plant the tree or shrub slightly above the level of the surrounding soil, to allow for settling and increased soil drainage.
3. Carefully place the tree or shrub in the hole. Handle the plant by the root ball, not by the trunk. A broken ball of earth can mean a dead plant. Always remove any container before you plant.
4. Backfill the hole, using only the native soil removed from the hole; do not use soil amendments when planting large shrubs and trees. Fill the hole, and firm the soil around the plant. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and to eliminate any air pockets.
5. Do not fertilize your tree or shrub after planting. Wait until early in the spring to do this, and even then, go lightly. Heavy applications of fertilizer may burn and injure the root system, and could possibly kill the plant.
6. Watering has been and remains paramount in transplanting. At the time of transplanting, soak the root ball and surrounding soil. A thorough watering every 7 to 10 days dramatically increases the success ratio. More frequent watering may encourage root rot. Remember more trees and shrubs fail from over watering then from under watering.
7. Before calling it a day, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch around the base of newly planted trees and shrubs. This helps to keep down weeds and conserve soil moisture. Use pine bark, compost, grass clippings, or leaves.
Fall is for planting. Visit your nursery today, and beautify and add value to your home.
EMERGENCY PROCEDURE
This article appeared in "Growing Fall Vegetables and Annuals in Texas", produced by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service, College Station, Texas.
In late fall, the weatherman will give the bad news: a blue norther, which will freeze all tender vegetation, is on the way. If you followed recommended planting schedules, your fall garden should have been producing luscious vegetables for over a month. However, gardeners should prepare to weather the storm! Texas weather is peculiar. Northers blow through for several days, then the weather often clears and warms. The next cold weather may not occur for several weeks. If tender vegetation was protected during the cold snap, you can continue harvesting summer vegetables in winter months.
Only tender, frost-susceptible vegetables need protection. Hopefully, these were planted together, as recommended. Frost-tolerant vegetables can withstand considerable cold.
If tomatoes have been supported by cages secured to prevent blow-down by high winds, these cages can be used as miniature greenhouses. Cover each cage with a plastic bag, and place a light bulb in each covered cage. The burning bulb releases enough heat to prevent plant damage from temperatures as low as 25 degrees F., or colder. Remember to anchor these cages, because if they blow down on a cold night, all efforts are in vain.
Anchored cages can also act as supports for a larger covered structure. For example, where a row of caged tomatoes borders each side of two rows of beans or squash, a greenhouse-type structure can be made by draping a large sheet of polyethylene plastic from the base of one row of cages to the base of the opposite row of cages. Anchor loose ends of plastic with soil or rocks.
As little foliage as possible should come into contact with the plastic, since the contacted foliage will freeze. After danger of frost is past, only one side of the makeshift greenhouse is rolled back. The other remains secured with soil for a quick cover on the next frost alert.
Maybe you don't want to go to all of this trouble. In that case, be prepared to harvest all frost-susceptible vegetables before the first killing frost.
BLACKBERRY VARIETY TRIALS AT STEPHENVILLE
By Nancy Roe, Toby Fojtik, and Johnnie R. Schmidt
Stephenville Research Center
Blackberry variety trials were established at the Stephenville Research Center in the spring of 1996. Varieties used were Arapaho, Choctaw, Kiowa, Navaho, Shawnee, and Womack. Root cuttings from the first 5 varieties came directly from the small-fruit breeding program at the University of Arkansas. Choctaw, Kiowa, and Shawnee were planted as root cuttings directly in the field on March 3, 1996. The root cuttings from Arapaho and Navaho were planted in soil in 1 gallon nursery containers, and kept in a greenhouse until they were planted in the field on May 2. Womack root cuttings were received later, so were planted on May 6. All cuttings and plants were spaced 2 feet apart, and drip irrigation was installed along the planting row.
Perhaps because of their late field planting, the two thornless varieties did not grow as vigorously as others during the first year, so production was low in 1997. Many of the Womack cuttings did not come up initially, probably because many had died during their long storage period and were planted very late. However, by 1998 the spreading of the plants had filled in most of the plots.
Soil in the planting area is a sandy loam with a pH of 6.8. During the first production year, plants were fertilized on June 27, with 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate per plant. During 1998, fertilization was not done until August, so ammonium nitrate at a rate of only 40 pounds per acre of actual nitrogen was used. Weeds were controlled by the use of pre-emergent and selective (grass only) herbicides, hoeing, and pulling weeds. The areas between the rows were mowed as needed. The only insect or disease control used so far is a neem oil product, which was used on May 29, 1998 to control aphids. At the same time, malathion was used on individual fire ant mounds between the rows. The berries are watered by permanently installed drip irrigation lines. Within a few weeks after harvest each summer, all floricanes (which produced that year) were pruned off at the ground.
Harvest information for the two seasons are presented in Tables 1 and 2. Harvest dates will vary with location and year, but the dates help to give an idea of the sequence of harvest from the varieties. While most people want to use the thornless varieties for obvious reasons, under our conditions (at least for the first two years) they have not been the highest yielding varieties. The large size of the Kiowa berries will make them very popular. However, according to Dr. Penny Perkins, post-harvest physiologist with USDA-ARS at Lane, OK, they are suitable only for local markets because they are too soft for shipping. Shawnee and Choctaw look very promising, but the plants are not yet readily available in the market.
For more detailed information on blackberry culture and management, look on the aggie-horticulture web site for the 1997 publication Growing Blackberries in Texas Gardens.
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Table 1. First year (1997) harvest of blackberry variety trials at Stephenville Research and Extension Center (listed by variety, harvest dates, yield in pounds per acre [yields per acre are based on rows spaced 10' apart.], and number of fruit per pound).
Arapaho - 6/16-6/26 - 663 - 106
Choctaw - 5/26-6/20 - 2,287 - 166
Kiowa - 6/16-7/17 - 2,626 - 78
Navaho - 6/19-7/17 - 71 - 431
Shawnee - 6/9-7/7 - 2,348 - 85
Womack - 6/4-7/7 - 396 - 140
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Table 2. Second year (1998) harvest of blackberry variety trials at Stephenville Research and Extension Center (listed by variety, harvest dates, yield in pounds per acre [yields per acre are based on rows spaced 10' apart.], and number of fruit per pound).
Arapaho - 6/1-6/20 - 1,332 - 441
Choctaw - 5/19-6/15 - 5,676 - 228
Kiowa - 5/26-6/26 - 16,961 - 71
Navaho - 6/1-6/26 - 386 - 493
Shawnee - 5/26-6/20 - 7,674 - 181
Womack - 5/19-6/22 - 4,392 - 119
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GARDEN CHECKLIST FOR OCTOBER
By Dr. William C. Welch, Landscape Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas
October through November is an excellent time to purchase bulbs while there is still a good selection. Bulbs can be planted at any time, except tulips and hyacinths.
Refrigerate tulip and hyacinth bulbs until mid to late December before planting. The lower part of the refrigerator is best. Do not leave bulbs in airtight plastic bags during refrigerator storage.
Plant bulbs in well-prepared beds. The base of the bulb should be at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb. In sandy soil, set bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
Start collecting leaves for composting. Be sure to have enough soil on hand to cover each 6-inch layer of leaves with several inches of soil. Add about 1 pound of a complete lawn or garden fertilizer to each leaf layer to provide the necessary nitrogen for decomposition. Thoroughly wet the leaf layer before adding soil.
Check your nursery or garden center for plants of snapdragons, pinks, sweet williams, poppies, and calendulas. Planted now, they will usually provide a riot of spring color.
Keep Christmas cacti in a sunny spot with nighttime temperatures below 65 degrees F; buds drop if nighttime temperatures rise above 70 degrees F, or if the plants become excessively dry. To initiate flower buds, Christmas cacti should be kept in total darkness from 5 PM until 8 AM for about 30 days in October.
If you have saved seed from your favorite plants, first air-dry them, and then place in an airtight container and refrigerate. Carefully label each packet. Remember, plants grown from hybrid plant seed seldom resemble the parent plant.
Prepare planting beds for pansies as soon as they are available at garden centers, and the night temperatures begin to cool. Pansies need well-drained soil and at least a half day of sun. It is best to use started plants, as seed is difficult to handle. Other annuals to plant now (except in the high plains and panhandle) include ornamental kale and cabbage, snapdragons, sweet alyssum, and petunias.
If you wish to save caladium tubers for another year, dig in late October and allow them to dry in a well ventilated but shaded area. After 7 to 10 days, remove the leaves and dirt; then, store in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or similar material. Pack so that the tubers do not touch each other, and dust with an all-purpose fungicide. Store the container in an area where temperatures won't drop below 50 degrees F.
If twig girdlers have infested your trees, and many twigs and branches are dropping, make sure these are collected and destroyed, since the eggs are deposited in that portion of the branch that drops to the ground.
There is still time to divide and reset perennials such as phlox, violets, iris, day lilies, and shasta daisies.
October is a good time to reduce the potential for insects and disease in next year's garden. Clean up the garden, removing all annuals that have completed their life cycle. Remove the tops of all herbaceous perennials when they finish flowering, or as soon as frost kills the leaves.
Holly plants with a heavy set of fruit often suffer from a fertiliz
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