We are lucky that our climate permits the planting of trees and shrubs just about all year long.
Bare-rooted plants can be planted in the winter and early spring. The advantage of bare- root planting is that you can back fill the hole with the dirt you dug out, which helps get uniform water penetration to the root area.
Be sure that any bare-rooted plants you buy have fresh, plump roots. Even so, the root system should be soaked briefly in a bucket of water. When you dig the hole, make the sides of the hole rough, not smooth. After the initial watering, water sparingly. Dormant plants need less water than growing ones.
Trees and shrubs in containers can be planted in any season. They are easy to transport and planting can be delayed, if need be. The plant should look healthy and not be seriously root- bound.
When you plant, loosen the roots and spread them out in the hole. Fill in with dirt and pack it down firmly. Form a ridge of soil around the plant to make a moat that will keep water from running off. Then water the plant thoroughly.
Helen Sanders, Smith County Master Gardener
Texas Cooperative Extension
Dormant fruit and ornamental trees are frequently sold "bare-root", packaged with damp moss or sawdust covering the roots. Treated properly, they will perform as well as container-grown plants.
Purchase and plant three- to four-foot trees with good root systems while fully dormant (December-February). Before planing, remove packing material. Soak the roots in water no more than one hour, and remove any that are broken.
Dig the planting hole just large enough for the root system to be spread in a natural position. Set the plant even with -its original depth, which is indicated by a change in color on the stem. Do not add fertilizer to the hole. However, root stimulator, available at local garden centers, may be applied according to label directions. Thoroughly water the tree. Be sure that air-pockets in the hole are filled and that the soil is at the proper level at the base of the tree after watering. Remove all tags and strings that may girdle fast growing stems.
A fertility program should begin in late fall of the first growing season for ornamental trees. Fruit trees can be fertilized the first year after they leaf out in spring and begin active growth.
Robin Wright Brumbelow, Smith County Master Gardener
Texas Cooperative Extension
Don't wait till spring to set out a new tree. Do it now and it will have several more months to establish roots before hot weather comes again.
Plan a little. Consider how big your tree will eventually become and give it plenty of room away from power lines, buildings and other trees. Also, select a tree that has few problems. Natives are good choices.
Dig the hole only as deep as the tree is in its nursery container or, for balled-and-burlapped plants, use the depth of the root ball. Make the hole twice as wide as the nursery container or root ball. Remove the container, of course, but for balled-and-burlapped trees, leave the burlap - just take away any twine or clips. Balled-and-burlapped trees should also be pruned by thinning about one-third at planting time (the tops, not the roots).
When you place your tree in the hole, make sure the base of the trunk is even with the soil line, not higher or lower. Fill the hole with the soil you dug out. Amending the back-fill soil with compost, etc., is not recommended as you might create an in-ground "bowl" that will encourage the roots to circle rather than extending outward over time.
After planting, water the tree well. You can make a low berm around the tree to keep the water from quickly running off. Then mulch the tree to protect it from the next freeze.
You might also want to dig out another foot or two around the tree and plant a few bulbs and some pansies. Or use some of the perennials you've divided and haven't found a place for.
Rosemary Moyers, Smith County Master Gardener
Texas Cooperative Extension
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