by Keith C. Hansen, Extension Horticulturist
The December 2000 ice storm in East Texas will be remembered for a long time for the
severity of the
damage to trees and the disruption of thousands of lives when electrical services were
interrupted. Initial cleanup has already begun, and we'll be seeing the effects of the
storm for some time.
The damage can be attributed to the slow, steady, prolonged rain of super-cooled
water that resulted in significant accumulation on branches, needles and leaves. In
some areas, up to 2 inches of rain fell Tuesday night and Wednesday morning. The
rain water froze upon contact with surfaces below 32 degrees and ice continued to
build up through the night. Limb breakage accelerated when the winds picked up,
swaying the heavily weighed down branches.
Folks with major tree damage need to do some evaluating, considering if the tree is
worth salvaging, and then consider their ability to do any needed repairs.
Many of the trees damaged include weak, brittle species, such as elm, pine, hackberry,
silver maple and willow. Extensive damage to these trees usually would call for tree
removal rather than trying to spend time and money on repair. If the whole top is
broken out of the tree, then it's questionable whether it will be economical to salvage
the tree. This is especially true for species with brittle wood.
Another common site of damage was in the forks of large branches. Narrow forks or
crotch angles frequently result in bark being trapped in the fork area as the branches
grow in diameter each year. Trapped or occluded bark results in a structurally weak
area which can split out under the weight of ice or in high winds. Other defects, such
as hidden rots or hollows from injuries that occurred long ago, resulted in weak unions
susceptible to breaking.
Keep in mind that tree wounds do not "heal" like skin injuries in mammals. Rather,
wounds are closed over as the tree produces wound callus. Very large wounds often
do not close properly.
I realize that nobody likes the thought of having to replace a mature tree, but
sometimes, that may be the best course of action for a badly damaged tree. Replace
with a tree species that has good characteristics and qualities.
While minor repairs to small limbs and branches can be done by the homeowner, when
it comes to large limbs high in the tree, it is usually time to call in the professionals.
Limbs left dangling high in the air are dangerous and difficult to remove.
Any broken branches should be removed down to the closest fork or to the trunk. Do
not leave stubs which will only invite rot and decay to travel down the branch and into
the trunk. Topping branches (indiscriminately placed cuts, not at a fork) will produce a
proliferation of smaller, weakly attached branches which will be susceptible to future
wind and ice damage. Never top a tree.
Large limbs should be removed using 3 steps to avoid stripping off bark down the tree
as the weight of the limb pulls down while cutting. To prevent stripping bark, make the
first cut on the underside of the branch, about 18 inches out from the trunk, up into the
branch about 1/3 to « way. Stop before the branch binds the saw blade. The second
cut is made a couple of inches away from the first cut, out toward the end of the branch.
This cut removes the branch, which will break off at the point of the first cut. Be careful
when removing heavy limbs as their movement and fall can be unpredictable. Make
the third cut to remove the remaining stub at the swollen branch collar.
If the storm did cause a falling branch to rip bark down the trunk, try to repair the
damage by removing loose bark and wood. Using a very sharp knife, clean or trace
the edges to promote faster production of wound callus. The top and bottom of the
wound should be pointed, like a football shape.
Chainsaw Safety
The ice storm has resulted in many folks breaking out chainsaws for the cleanup
operations. Chainsaws are among the most dangerous tools homeowners use and
every year there are many accidents involving chainsaws. As a matter of fact,
approximately 23,000 persons annually require emergency room treatment for
chainsaw injuries.
Since chainsaws are used so infrequently, be sure to read the owner's manual and
become thoroughly familiar with all aspects of safe operation and maintenance before
using the saw. Most accidents involve the operator coming into direct contact with the
blade. This can happen when you reach across or hold limbs near the moving blade, or
by losing control of the saw when losing your balance or footing. Also, accidents can
happen by turning suddenly while sawing, shifting the chainsaw while cutting at or
above waist level, or by experiencing chainsaw kickback.
Other hazards include falling trees and limbs, particles in the eyes, contacting a hot
part of the saw, and fire.
Wear warm, comfortable, trim-fitting clothing that allows easy movement. Loose
clothing can get caught in the moving chain. Also, wear nonslip gloves, heavy work
boots which won't slip, protective goggles over your eyes and ear protection.
Always use both hands when starting a chain saw, one to hold the saw and the other to
pull the starter rope. Some chain saws can also be held down with a foot while starting.
Check the owner's manual for additional starting information. Grip the top handle of the
saw firmly and pull the starter rope quickly. It is not a safe practice to start a chain saw
while holding it in mid-air with one hand. Always start it on the ground on a stable
surface.
If you are cutting small logs, support them off of the ground so the chain will not hit the
ground and to prevent binding of the wood. Let the chain do the cutting. Extra pressure
does not need to be applied and can lead to accidents. Do not try to cut wood with a
diameter greater than the length of the chainsaw bar guide. Felling trees of larger
diameter than the guide requires special techniques and really should be left up to
professionals.
Do not operate a chain saw up in a tree or from a ladder unless you have been
specifically trained and are equipped to do so. There is a great risk that you can lose
your balance because of cutting forces on the saw or unpredictable movement of the
limbs being cut.
Do not cut near chain link fences, wire fences, or in areas where there is loose or scrap
wire. Use extreme caution with cutting small-size brush and saplings because slender
material may catch the cutting chain and be whipped toward you or pull you off
balance.
Operating a chainsaw over a long period of time can be tiring. Fatigue is responsible
for many accidents, so take frequent breaks. Gloves will help reduce hand and wrist
injury from the constant vibration. Certainly you should never operate a chain saw if
you have been drinking alcoholic beverages, or if you have been taking prescription
medication or non-prescription drugs.
You should always maintain proper chain tension. Keep in mind that the chain is
turning about 50 miles per hour, and if it comes loose, it can do major damage. And
always keep the teeth sharp. It would be a good idea to have a backup chain if you
are going to be cutting for a long time. A properly sharpened saw will produce wood
chips, not sawdust or powder. The chain will need sharpening if it cuts a wide groove,
walks sideways while cutting or produces fine sawdust. Smoke or a burnt smell, and
having to exert more pressure are also signs the blade needs sharpening.
Keep the chain frequently oiled during operation, and watch out for kickback which is
responsible for nearly 1/3 or all chainsaw accidents. To avoid kickback: keep a firm,
two-hand grip on the saw; grip the top handle with the thumb under and around it;
never stand directly in back of the cut - rather, stand to the side; saw only with the
bottom part of the chain, close to the bumper; never cut with nose of the chain; watch
for obstructions like limbs or twigs on the other side of the cut; do not allow the bar to
be pinched in a cut or twist the bar while cutting; saw only at waist level and below and
never above the chest; and use a saw with a chain brake, nose guard, anti-kickback
chain and other anti-kickback features.
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith. Educational programs of Texas Cooperative Extension are open to all individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
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